At long last, I finally fugured out the mystery of the white pumace beach...
The mythic beach of my youth really no longer exists, but the reason is not quite as I had imagined...
When i was 17 and went to thie "white beach", it was next to a large pumace processing plant where pumace was mined and refined into a number of products. As a result, the tailings or waste of the plant, was a fine powder that was as light as talcum powder. this was dumped down the side of the mountain and then finally into the sea. When the mines closed, the pumace tailings that made for a wide vast white beach that was like baby powder wet with it. within a few short years, the tailings solidified, plants began to grow and the sea washed away the beach...basically, nature reclaimed the island.
when one visits the former factories today, its an erie sight. Abandoned for almost 10 years now, the mines are crumbling rapidly. Still, since they were seized in 2008, the workers simply walked away and left things as they were. You can still find unused pumace powder bags, small boxes of pumace stones everywhere, and machienery
How did this happen so fast?
deep in thought 1989
when I was young, I filled journals with all of my dreams and hopes while I traveled, I still have them all...but this time, I think I will try technology
Saturday, June 27, 2015
Finally i understand...
We rented Scooters for the past two days. It was more than fun to cruise around the island on these little bikes! When I get home, I really want to have one... its quite liberating to have that wind whip across your face and to feel so free!
Bucket list...Vulcano
Yep... I hiked to the top of an active volcano... and this is what I saw... see those clouds... that is sulphuric acid or something... it was hot as hell... and profoundly amazing!
I wont lie, it was hard to hike. And, as always, I was the slowest! Dripping in sweat, I trudged up the slippery loose gravel taking breaked every 50 meters or so just to catch my breath! Sweetly, Josh, Laura & Charlotte took turns being at the back of the line with me... taking care of me... I have never felt so old but also so loved...
As Josh says... it's not how fast you make it up to the top... but that you make it... Well, I made it... This was only an hour to the top and stromboli is supposed to be harder and is two hours up... I knoow I will make it... but I know it will be hard.
I wont lie, it was hard to hike. And, as always, I was the slowest! Dripping in sweat, I trudged up the slippery loose gravel taking breaked every 50 meters or so just to catch my breath! Sweetly, Josh, Laura & Charlotte took turns being at the back of the line with me... taking care of me... I have never felt so old but also so loved...
As Josh says... it's not how fast you make it up to the top... but that you make it... Well, I made it... This was only an hour to the top and stromboli is supposed to be harder and is two hours up... I knoow I will make it... but I know it will be hard.
Josh & Katie join the trip...
As a teacher, it is very few and far between that you really see the effects of your teaching on students. While I can't say that I really change lives, I am grateful that, in some way, I become connected to students in a way that transcends a classroom. I always thought it was cool that Suzi Merriams dad was still friends with his woodshp teacher, I loved that they camped together every year. I loved that he was friends with some of his students and that many of my friends saw him as a mentor...As a teacher you hope fore this. For me, Joshie is like my oldest son/ little brother. I have known him since my first year at WHS and have always admired his big heart, warm smile and ability to put anyone at ease. You cant help but simply adore Josh.
It seemed completely unreal when Josh and Katie told me that they were coming to Italy. What started out as a trip for our family and some jokes online about who else wanted to come quickly turned into reality.
Honestly, having josh here in the Islands has been amazing! While his Italian is really just Spanish, he is amazing at meeting people and making connections! Within hours of being here, he met locals and already had me meeting elders from the town! I laugh to think about how I will be as successful as him at meeting people when he is gone... there is no way!
It seemed completely unreal when Josh and Katie told me that they were coming to Italy. What started out as a trip for our family and some jokes online about who else wanted to come quickly turned into reality.
Honestly, having josh here in the Islands has been amazing! While his Italian is really just Spanish, he is amazing at meeting people and making connections! Within hours of being here, he met locals and already had me meeting elders from the town! I laugh to think about how I will be as successful as him at meeting people when he is gone... there is no way!
Well...its late...but we have been busy
So many amazing things have happened... lets see if I can recount them all for you...
We were invited to a Bachelorette party...where Drew became the life of the party ans danced the night away.
I walked up to
the old cemetary
We were invited to a Bachelorette party...where Drew became the life of the party ans danced the night away.
I walked up to
the old cemetary
These are some of the most beautiful graves I have ever seen...
I discovered that you can see the Aeolian Islands on a clear day... From Santo Stefano....
Tuesday, June 23, 2015
Almost gone...
Today we head from our lovely apartment down to Playa Bianca hotel. I have to say that staying in town is really so meuch better than having to hike up the hill every time you wish to come here... the pool simply isnt worth it... I feel like I am a part of the community now and as always, I really dont want to leave... If you are wondering... I havent posted pictures of...anything, simply because the wireless is intermitten on my phone...where all the photos are... so you will simply have to use your imagination... I will say this: I have used an entire memory card for my camera and am starting on the second... that is 600+ photos!
I wish I could show those... maybe in the islands will have some type of computer I can use to upload something...
I wish I could show those... maybe in the islands will have some type of computer I can use to upload something...
Monday, June 22, 2015
What if?
I have always dreamed about my ancestors and where they came from, I have imagined the wild sea bringing them to the shores of Sicily. From what we have gathered, Pasquale came from Palermo with his two daughters, Anna & Carmella. Anna was pregnant when she came to Santo Stefano and when she gave birth to Andrea she wrote "ignato" where the name of the father was to be. Still their short existence in S. Stefano remains something that still intrigues me. Each time I say my ancestors are from here, they ask for the name and I hear the same response..." no, never heard of them."
Their time here was short lived, maybe only from the 1700's until roughly the 1900's. So where are the rest of the Subbiondo's? Are we really such a small clan? How is it that this name has no remaing roots? We must have come from somewhere else...
This morning, I headed out before the family woke. I stopped by Bar Paradiso to grab a cappucino and a cornetto. The signora Sebastiana, warmly greeted me, here tired eyes full of love. As always, she gave me a kiss on the cheek and served me the very best cappuccino. She is so kind and loving. Sometimes I like to imagine that we are her favorite guests, but I know this isn't true. She simply has a big heart, and her personal goal is to make all of her guests happy. I tell her of my plans to visit the old cemetery and the sanctuary. "It's too far to go on foot, I can take you this afternoon."
I always feel so uncomfortable being offered such things. " Oh no signora! I can't ask you to do that. I don't want to be a burden."
"Please its no trouble..."
"Ok, then I will only go to the cemetery this morning and I will look forward to enjoying the sanctuary with you in the afternoon!" With my camera in hand, I headed up the long narrow streets of Santo Stefano toward cemitero veccio. As I made my way up the hill, the heat seemed to radiate up from the street. Sweat dripped down my forehead and even with my large sunday best hat, the heat of the early morning challenged me to push forward. My lungs filled with warm air and my knees reminded me that I was no longer 16 and trim. The usual aches and pains of age and fatigue filled my hips. I stopped and faced the sea. Across from the water I could see the Aeolian Islands, simple blue shaddows in a blue sky, I had never noticed them before. No camera could truly capture this sight and still I found myself snapping away.
What if my ancestors came from there? What if, they only said they came from Palermo but, instead came from the islands? My wild imagination envisioned them sailing across the narrow tyhrennian sea to the small town. As much as I feel myself drawn to these two places, could it be that my love of the water, my love of Santo Stefano and the Aeolian Islands is forever linked to these ancestors? It's a romantic fantasy to say the least, but what if? What if my inexplicable desire to be in these places is something transgenerational? The islands wer home to pirates, what if my ancestors were pirates...or better, escaping pirates?
As I climbed the hill, visions of them landing on the shore and walking the same streets filled my head. When I arrived at the cemetery, there were tears ( possible sweat) in my eyes. A cool breeze whisked through the trees and the gate creaked as I opened it. Beyond the cemetery, through the trees, I could still see the Islands. Isolated in time, I explored the tombs.
Their time here was short lived, maybe only from the 1700's until roughly the 1900's. So where are the rest of the Subbiondo's? Are we really such a small clan? How is it that this name has no remaing roots? We must have come from somewhere else...
This morning, I headed out before the family woke. I stopped by Bar Paradiso to grab a cappucino and a cornetto. The signora Sebastiana, warmly greeted me, here tired eyes full of love. As always, she gave me a kiss on the cheek and served me the very best cappuccino. She is so kind and loving. Sometimes I like to imagine that we are her favorite guests, but I know this isn't true. She simply has a big heart, and her personal goal is to make all of her guests happy. I tell her of my plans to visit the old cemetery and the sanctuary. "It's too far to go on foot, I can take you this afternoon."
I always feel so uncomfortable being offered such things. " Oh no signora! I can't ask you to do that. I don't want to be a burden."
"Please its no trouble..."
"Ok, then I will only go to the cemetery this morning and I will look forward to enjoying the sanctuary with you in the afternoon!" With my camera in hand, I headed up the long narrow streets of Santo Stefano toward cemitero veccio. As I made my way up the hill, the heat seemed to radiate up from the street. Sweat dripped down my forehead and even with my large sunday best hat, the heat of the early morning challenged me to push forward. My lungs filled with warm air and my knees reminded me that I was no longer 16 and trim. The usual aches and pains of age and fatigue filled my hips. I stopped and faced the sea. Across from the water I could see the Aeolian Islands, simple blue shaddows in a blue sky, I had never noticed them before. No camera could truly capture this sight and still I found myself snapping away.
What if my ancestors came from there? What if, they only said they came from Palermo but, instead came from the islands? My wild imagination envisioned them sailing across the narrow tyhrennian sea to the small town. As much as I feel myself drawn to these two places, could it be that my love of the water, my love of Santo Stefano and the Aeolian Islands is forever linked to these ancestors? It's a romantic fantasy to say the least, but what if? What if my inexplicable desire to be in these places is something transgenerational? The islands wer home to pirates, what if my ancestors were pirates...or better, escaping pirates?
As I climbed the hill, visions of them landing on the shore and walking the same streets filled my head. When I arrived at the cemetery, there were tears ( possible sweat) in my eyes. A cool breeze whisked through the trees and the gate creaked as I opened it. Beyond the cemetery, through the trees, I could still see the Islands. Isolated in time, I explored the tombs.
Saturday, June 20, 2015
Santo Stefano
The pace of the city is slow and calm. I can let char go free to wander the streets and go where she wishes. The whole family can do as they please for that matter. You can't get lost. Within moments of entering, I feel a sense of connection that I'm sure the locals feel is strange. I know They must think Im odd, but for Americans, we are longing for our roots. Even Maria, my long lost relative, asks when we see eachother, "how are we related?" Its so many generations back that it is silly to say we are related, and yet, we do look very similar. I wonder if she sees it too. Or is it just my hope to be connected to this place.
So many times I have thought about this odd phenomena. How many Americans travel to find their roots. We reach back in history as far as we can to find something, some type of connection, real or imagined to some other place besides the US. In the US I say im Italian ( although my mother says Im Irish) but here I can only say I'm American. Consider the number of my students who wish to be considered American, but will never be so. Here, I wish only to be something else, and its really something I can never be. So I settle for saying that my ancestors are from this village and that they all travelled over on the same boat. That is why there are none left...the name has disappeared here in Italy. but for a short time, they existed here in this small village; with its narrow streets, and beautiful ceramics.
We met a lovely couple today that said they would love to do an exchange with us, they have two children as well 17 & 21. they have an appartment and they own a small salameria. How cool would that be... I know somethign great will happen this summer... but is this it? will I really find a way to remain here in Italy for at least a year? Like me she started her family early, ans like me, she wants change...she is itching for something different, and so is her husband.
Every morning, Johnny has proposed a new way to remain in Italy. It's like he really gets my love for this place, but more importantly, there is a sense of urgency for him, that now is OUR time, he is ready. Had you told me 10 years ago that Johnny would feel this way, I think he and I would have been surprised by this, it's a dream come true. The reality is, life got in our way- how could we think about travelling when we were just surviving working and parenting, his job was to simply get us through the toughest part, and so, now, we are through it, we are stable, our kids are almost grown and we both have accomplished all that we can in both Santa cruz AND in our current careers... we can do all the things that everyone else did when they were in theire early 20's...
So many times I have thought about this odd phenomena. How many Americans travel to find their roots. We reach back in history as far as we can to find something, some type of connection, real or imagined to some other place besides the US. In the US I say im Italian ( although my mother says Im Irish) but here I can only say I'm American. Consider the number of my students who wish to be considered American, but will never be so. Here, I wish only to be something else, and its really something I can never be. So I settle for saying that my ancestors are from this village and that they all travelled over on the same boat. That is why there are none left...the name has disappeared here in Italy. but for a short time, they existed here in this small village; with its narrow streets, and beautiful ceramics.
We met a lovely couple today that said they would love to do an exchange with us, they have two children as well 17 & 21. they have an appartment and they own a small salameria. How cool would that be... I know somethign great will happen this summer... but is this it? will I really find a way to remain here in Italy for at least a year? Like me she started her family early, ans like me, she wants change...she is itching for something different, and so is her husband.
Every morning, Johnny has proposed a new way to remain in Italy. It's like he really gets my love for this place, but more importantly, there is a sense of urgency for him, that now is OUR time, he is ready. Had you told me 10 years ago that Johnny would feel this way, I think he and I would have been surprised by this, it's a dream come true. The reality is, life got in our way- how could we think about travelling when we were just surviving working and parenting, his job was to simply get us through the toughest part, and so, now, we are through it, we are stable, our kids are almost grown and we both have accomplished all that we can in both Santa cruz AND in our current careers... we can do all the things that everyone else did when they were in theire early 20's...
Crossing to Sicily
Thursday, June 18, 2015
Just a little stop
We are in Policastro Busitino- a small city that is about two hours away from where we will cross over to Sicily. I love that every place we stop...Johnny says "why cant we stay here for a few days?" He makes me happy. While this is only a small stop on the way to the big island of Sicily, its feels like home- like really... its like an Italian Santa cruz...just add a really long siesta and more olive trees and we have a match!
We are going to grab a few bites and head to the water... Life really is beautiful...
Wednesday, June 17, 2015
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
